The church of Saint Melangell in Powys, mid Wales.
Imagine a party of huntsmen in the thick, green
undergrowth of a small, wooded valley. The dogs are barking as they begin
to follow the scent of a hare. One of the huntsmen sounds the horn. Riding at
the front is the local prince. The time is 607 A.D. The place is the Pennant
Valley in the kingdom of Powys, in central Wales.
The hare disappears into a huge thicket of
undergrowth, and the hunters prepare to follow. Then suddenly strange things
begin to happen. The dogs turn back in fear. The huntsman with the horn finds
he cannot sound a blast, yet he cannot take the horn from his lips. The prince,
brave and proud, leaps from his horse. He will not show fear in the face of
magic. He draws his sword and begins to cut his way through the brambles and
shrubs.
In a circular clearing in the centre of the
thicket stands a young woman. She is dressed very simply. She stands calmly,
radiating a sense of peace. At her feet the hare has crouched down for safety.
Prince Brochwell of Powys has just come face to face with Melangell, the
daughter of an Irish warrior.
The legend tells us that Melangell refused a
pre-arranged marriage to an old warrior chieftain. She fled to Wales and began
a life of prayer, living in a cave on the side of the Pennant Valley.
As she was drawn deeper into the spiritual life, animals began to come to
her in complete trust. Around her the world was restored to Paradise.
Prince Brochwell granted her the valley as a
place of prayer and refuge for ever. Gradually a small convent grew up, and a
church was built. When Melangell died, the nuns placed her body within the
church. The holy woman came to be known as a saint. No one knows how long the
convent lasted, but archaeologists have shown that nuns were still being buried
outside the church in the 9th and 10th Century.
Around 1160 A.D. a new stone church was built,
with a shrine where people could come to venerate the bones of Saint Melangell.
Pilgrims began to arrive, and miracles of healing took place. The valley was
noted as a place of peace, a sanctuary for hares, a comfort to the sick, a
glimpse of heaven.
Then came the upheavals and pain of the
Reformation. The shrine was desecrated, and chunks of masonry from the
shrine were hurled out of the church. Often the relics of saints were destroyed
at this time by the reformers, but Saint Melangell was reburied in the floor of
the church. Pilgrims were no longer encouraged to make the long journey into
the Welsh mountains to visit this holy place.
Centuries passed, and times changed. Hardly
anyone lived near the tiny church in the hidden valley. The few local sheep
farmers could not afford to repair the building. By the 1980's the church was
almost derelict. Then in 1988 work began to restore the church and shrine of
Saint Melangell. Many parts of the ancient shrine were found built into walls,
or on neighbouring farms. New masonry was carved to match the old stonework. Today,
the church and shrine are beautiful once more. Hundreds of pilgrims flock to
pray there and to ask for the prayers of the early Celtic holy woman. A centre
for healing and rest has been established a few yards from the church, so that
Saint Melangell's work may continue.
In the summer of 2002 I had the great joy of
visiting Pennant Melangell. I was with a group of youngsters from the Greek
Orthodox youth camp. We were joined by Egumen Deiniol, a Welsh monk -priest of
the
Orthodox
Church, a wild figure with long hair and a grey beard which forked in the
wind.
The church-yard was full of tiny midges, so we
hurried into the church. There Father Deiniol told us the story of Saint
Melangell, and we prayed for a while. Then the youngsters sang in English,
Greek and Russian. At last it was time to venerate the relics in the shrine.
The shrine is positioned behind the altar. There
is a space for pilgrims to walk slowly past the altar, and to circulate round
behind the shrine. There you can kneel and pray. I lit a candle and remembered
someone very dear to me who has been ill for some years, and I took home a
small card from the shrine for her.
Holy
Saint Melangell, pray to God for us!
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