Pilgrimage
to Glastonbury.
The
town of Glastonbury is set on an island of higher ground in the marshy Somerset
Levels in South West England. It is a place of mystery, a place of spiritual
power, a place of legend, the Isle of Avalon.
People have linked Glastonbury with a mystic
Temple of the Stars, ancient Celtic mysteries and the Mother Goddess. The
stories are also linked with King Arthur and the Holy Grail. One legend claims
that Joseph of Arimathea brought the Cup of the Last Supper (the Holy Grail) to
Glastonbury. This chalice now rests below the hill called Glastonbury Tor, at a
place called Chalice Well.
Another story tells us that Joseph of Arimathea
came with a wooden staff cut from a Palestinian thorn tree. As he approached
Glastonbury, he was tired and weary. He stuck the wooden staff into the ground
to lean on it. Later, the staff took root and began to grow leaves. It was
transferred to the grounds of the first church, where it amazed everyone by
flowering in the middle of winter. The Glastonbury Thorn became one of the
special sights at Glastonbury Abbey in the Middle Ages, and flowered there each
Christmas long after the Reformation.
Certainly Glastonbury was an early Christian
site, a little wattle church dedicated to Mary, the Most Holy Mother of God,
set amidst apple orchards. This church grew to become a great spiritual centre.
Archaeologists have found signs of occupation on Glastonbury Tor from the years
when the Romano Britons were fighting the Saxon invaders. Perhaps this was the
stronghold of a Christian war leader like King Arthur. Later, there was a large
church on the top of the Tor, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, with a
processional pathway for pilgrims to approach the building. In the town there
are early Saxon remains beneath the ruins of the great abbey that you see
today.
During the Middle Ages the monks spread the story
that the bodies of King Arthur and his queen had been found in the abbey
grounds. Visitors and pilgrims flocked to Glastonbury, and the abbey became
wealthy. At the Reformation, all the wealth was confiscated by the English
king, the abbey grounds were sold, and the buildings became derelict.
Early in the 20th Century Glastonbury
became a focus for Christian worship and pilgrimage once again. Anglicans,
Roman Catholics and Orthodox Christians all recognised Glastonbury as a special
place, and began to make an annual pilgrimage.
Today the pilgrimage takes place early in July,
with services in the abbey grounds and processions through the town. The focus
of the prayer and services is Our Lady, the Most Holy Mother of God. This
points everyone to the reality of the Incarnation of Jesus Christ who is both God and man. Pilgrims carry a statue of
Our Lady, as well as banners. There is also an Orthodox icon showing the Mother
of God holding the Christ Child on one arm, with the Glastonbury thorn in her
other hand. Mother and Child are surrounded by some of the saints who are
linked with Glastonbury.
I spent my years as a teenager near Glastonbury,
helped at the last season of archaeological excavations in the abbey grounds,
and worked with the team which excavated the site of the church on the top of
Glastonbury Tor. That was more than 35 years ago. I had also attended an
Orthodox service one year in Glastonbury Abbey. In the summer of 2003 and 2004,
I was able to return to Glastonbury. I had a blessing from Archbishop Gregorios
of Thyateira and Great Britain to go on pilgrimage there with members of my
parish from South Wales. We were to celebrate a service in honour of the Mother
of God, and to join other Christians for the procession through the town.
The abbey grounds are peaceful, with trees for
shade, newly planted apple orchards, and the well kept ruins of the church and
monastic buildings. The weather in early July was wonderful. We assembled about
10.00 a.m. in the crypt of the Lady Chapel to chant a general prayer service
with a canon in honour of Mary. Later, as the Anglicans began their communion
service, we talked with visitors who had shared our worship. Hundreds of
Christians and a number of bishops had gathered in the abbey grounds for the
services, followed by a leisurely lunch. Gradually we assembled in the main
street of the town for the procession. Groups from dozens of parishes walked in
line, bearing banners and singing hymns. Our Orthodox parish brought an icon of
St Michael, an icon of our local saint, David of Wales, and a newly painted
copy of the Glastonbury Icon. After the procession, we attended the service of
Evensong and Benediction in the ruins of the abbey church.
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